U1000 Fault Code - IMMOBILISER/METER/ETACS

[Ratchet Adam]

Hi everyone, first post here and I am looking for advice, I bought a 2011 MIEV and on the way back from purchasing the car approx 8 miles I stopped to charge the car at a charge point, unfortunately the car would not charge i believe this is because the selector would not go into park properly as it showed the yellow car warning light with a exclamation symbol when I out the car in park the previous owner said if you wiggle the selector or grease the cable this stops, well I gave up but from that point the car would not go to ready mode and the yellow car warning symbol stayed on, I could select all the gears but the car would not drive what so ever, I got the car recoverd home and plugged in my diagnostics tool checked the codes and decided to clear them all, this cleared the yellow car symbol with an explanation mark but the cat still would not ready up, re scanned the code and I have 3 permanent faults with the same code IMMOBILISER U1000
METER U1000
ETACS U1000
any information would be great. The 12v red battery warning light stays on now with a actually 12v battery reading of 11.6V

Thank you

 

[kiev]

Your 12V battery is likely old, weak or worn out. It is causing the "Uxxxx" communication errors of the CAN buss.

Charge up the 12V and get it capacity tested or specific gravity test to verify it is good, or replace it.

The battery voltage should go up to 14. when the car is in READY as it is being charged by the DCDC Converter. So that can be checked with a voltmeter on the battery terminals or a gauge plugged in the cigarette socket[edit or a scan tool that plugs into the OBDII port with a phone app]. If the DCDC is not working then the 12V battery will get depleted quickly and leave you stranded.

 

[Ratchet Adam]

Your 12V battery is likely old, weak or worn out. It is causing the "Uxxxx" communication errors of the CAN buss.

Charge up the 12V and get it capacity tested or specific gravity test to verify it is good, or replace it.

The battery voltage should go up to 14. when the car is in READY as it is being charged by the DCDC Converter. So that can be checked with a voltmeter on the battery terminals or a gauge plugged in the cigarette socket[edit or a scan tool that plugs into the OBDII port with a phone app]. If the DCDC is not working then the 12V battery will get depleted quickly and leave you stranded.

I have fitted a new 12v battery as it did require one, but the car still won't ready up.

 

[piev]

You tube "how to fix U1000 Code in your car"

Can Communication error possibly caused by failed module pulling down bus.

 

[kiev]

Using the scan tool to check if the ECU modules are active, as described in the video above, sounds like a good step.

Regardless of the scan results, it would be time to check all the module wiring for rodent damage and all the connectors for corrosion of contacts and terminals.

 

[colin]

Hi everyone, first post here and I am looking for advice, I bought a 2011 MIEV and on the way back from purchasing the car approx 8 miles I stopped to charge the car at a charge point, unfortunately the car would not charge i believe this is because the selector would not go into park properly as it showed the yellow car warning light with a exclamation symbol when I out the car in park the previous owner said if you wiggle the selector or grease the cable this stops, well I gave up but from that point the car would not go to ready mode and the yellow car warning symbol stayed on, I could select all the gears but the car would not drive what so ever, I got the car recoverd home and plugged in my diagnostics tool checked the codes and decided to clear them all, this cleared the yellow car symbol with an explanation mark but the cat still would not ready up, re scanned the code and I have 3 permanent faults with the same code IMMOBILISER U1000
METER U1000
ETACS U1000
any information would be great. The 12v red battery warning light stays on now with a actually 12v battery reading of 11.6V

Thank you

Hi
Replace 12v battery.
That's it.
Bet it works.
I have had mine 7.5 years.
Poor 12v battery causes all kinds of weird symptons and codes, plus head scratching.

 

[Ratchet Adam]

I have had the car go ready on 4 consecutive tries then the Electric Vehicle Warning Light appears and the vehicle won't go into ready mode, same codes as mentioned in the first statement,

Hi
Replace 12v battery.
That's it.
Bet it works.
I have had mine 7.5 years.
Poor 12v battery causes all kinds of weird symptons and codes, plus head scratching.

Battery was replaced today no change

 

[Ratchet Adam]

I've done more tests today at the car won't charge, I believe this is common fault.

 

[MickeyS70]

I have had the car go ready on 4 consecutive tries then the Electric Vehicle Warning Light appears and the vehicle won't go into ready mode, same codes as mentioned in the first statement,

Battery was replaced today no change

It’s recommended that even a new battery should be charged overnight before being used…

 

[Ratchet Adam]

I have manged to get hold of the Mitsubishi Service Bulletin book for this car, and its looking more like the EV-ECU or the DC/DC converter has failed, I will be doing manual voltage, resistance checks against manufacturer specs to clarify this.

 

[kiev]

What codes are showing now?

Did you charge the "new" battery before installation--i have bought 3 new batteries off the shelf that were discharged from sitting and needed charging.

 

[Ratchet Adam]

What codes are showing now?

Did you charge the "new" battery before installation--i have bought 3 new batteries off the shelf that were discharged from sitting and needed charging.

The battery was tested before installation, it was fine

 

[martinwinlow]

The battery was tested before installation, it was fine

What ***exactly*** does “was tested” mean and likewise “fine”? Just putting a multimeter across it and it telling you it’s in the region of 12V means very little. The only way to properly test it is to use a proper high current discharge testing device which puts a significant load across the battery and then monitors the voltage over a few seconds to make sure it does not drop like a stone. Otherwise you’re just (potentially) wasting your time (and ours!).

 

[kiev]

i can't recall ever seeing a defective EV-ECU reported; there have been a handful of DCDC Converter failures reported, and there is a thread for repairs:
https://myimiev.com/threads/gen1-dcdc-converter-troubleshooting-and-repair.4737/

But there have been hundreds thousands of reports on this and other EV forums with DTC codes thrown that vanished after correcting a weak battery issue. And that's all i'm gonna say about that...

 

[Ratchet Adam]

What ***exactly*** does “was tested” mean and likewise “fine”? Just putting a multimeter across it and it telling you it’s in the region of 12V means very little. The only way to properly test it is to use a proper high current discharge testing device which puts a significant load across the battery and then monitors the voltage over a few seconds to make sure it does not drop like a stone. Otherwise you’re just (potentially) wasting your time (and ours!).

It's been changed and tested by sufficient testing equipment, I am positive it is not the 12V battery, it will be a process of elimination now

 

[Ratchet Adam]

After further testing looks like an issue with the PTC heater or harness, not sure which one or exact cause yet.

 

[kiev]

I got the car recoverd home and plugged in my diagnostics tool checked the codes and decided to clear them all,

From the OP, it looks like a combination of gear selector switch issues and some DTCs that were preventing READY.

Did you happen to keep a copy of the initial DTCs before you cleared them? That would provide good clues of where to look.

The PTC heater has reports and posts here about causing issues, seems disconnecting it would allow READY for some of the guys.

 

[Gary12345]

All the cars ive looked at have u1000, it relates to a component that was only fitted on japanese cars so your car doesnt have it and hence has the "no can comms" code. It isnt an issue.

The reduction gear has 2 sensors - if they disagree then the car wont start or charge. Spray plenty of lubricating oil over the selector mechanism at the back of the car on the drivers (US drivers that is) side and put the gear lever up and down numerous times, then most likely it will work.

If you get a decent diagnostic machine you can check what the gear sensors are reading to see if they disagree.
Cheers