I wanted to thank the folks in this Forum, especially Kenny and Coulomb for their wise advice. My I-Miev is back charging, repaired solely with the information provided here. You guys rock!
So, on my quest to get the OBC replaced, I found a 2016 charger in a salvage yard as posted above, but it was a Gen1 charger (EMI box on top). I believed any of them made after 2012 wouldn't have the waffle plate, but I want to have the car on the road, so I took it. This 2016 one comes with the...
The seller shipped me an inverter instead of a charger ($400 US anyone?). Found a 2016 charger, which this time I will go check myself before I buy it. May a 2016 charger be installed in a 2012?
To measure, I placed a 9 A (my meter goes to 10A, did not want to blow the fuse) constant current source between the N pins (above 15-16) and the emitter of one of the bottom IGBT (per the x-ray these are the two ends of the shunt), then measured the voltage between 15 and 16. Took three...
Would someone know the value of the shunt located between pins 15 and 16 in the waffle board? I'm measuring 2.94mOhm (26.5mV with 9A). 294 is a standard number/decade for 1% resistors, but I want to make sure. Thanks!
Thanks, it's on ebay.de, https://www.ebay.de/itm/325986290718. Bidding starts at 500 Euros. A bit expensive, considering the whole charger could be found for $500.
I'm thinking about making the H bridge on a board outside of the waffle plate, thinking on options of where to stick it inside the...
Hello all you great members of this amazing forum. On my saga to repair my i-Miev, last I left was that the waffle plate H Bridge IGBTs are bad, some shorted, some open. Tried several things to remove the epoxy, and with no replacement used charger in sight, plus no decent offers with the car on...
Giving up on the waffle plate. Cannot do anything with the epoxy. Tried boiling, applying heat, hammering, acetone, nothing clears this beast. Plus, on further troubleshooting it looks like all the IGBTs of the H Bridge are defective, which is an extensive repair, would be much easier without...
I just finished going through this exercise and yes, it's really hard to unsolder. Whatever you do, do not pull, since it can remove traces and/or damage the board.
I followed the schematic on post #1,197 as to see which points could need more time: single signal points would require less time...