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I wanted to thank the folks in this Forum, especially Kenny and Coulomb for their wise advice. My I-Miev is back charging, repaired solely with the information provided here. You guys rock!

So, on my quest to get the OBC replaced, I found a 2016 charger in a salvage yard as posted above, but it was a Gen1 charger (EMI box on top). I believed any of them made after 2012 wouldn't have the waffle plate, but I want to have the car on the road, so I took it. This 2016 one comes with the...

Thank you Kenny for confirming. I was unsure if the 2014 and 2016 were the same charger. Now I have a 2014 inverter for spare/sale.

The seller shipped me an inverter instead of a charger ($400 US anyone?). Found a 2016 charger, which this time I will go check myself before I buy it. May a 2016 charger be installed in a 2012?

To measure, I placed a 9 A (my meter goes to 10A, did not want to blow the fuse) constant current source between the N pins (above 15-16) and the emitter of one of the bottom IGBT (per the x-ray these are the two ends of the shunt), then measured the voltage between 15 and 16. Took three...

Would someone know the value of the shunt located between pins 15 and 16 in the waffle board? I'm measuring 2.94mOhm (26.5mV with 9A). 294 is a standard number/decade for 1% resistors, but I want to make sure. Thanks!

A quick question: May the OBC from a 2014 be installed on a 2012? Possibly found one and might buy if yes

Thanks, it's on ebay.de, https://www.ebay.de/itm/325986290718. Bidding starts at 500 Euros. A bit expensive, considering the whole charger could be found for $500. I'm thinking about making the H bridge on a board outside of the waffle plate, thinking on options of where to stick it inside the...

Me neither... Hopefully they will not be gone when I get to see it

Thanks Piki for the quick reply. I'll take a look

Thanks Piki. I found one in Japan, but $920 in shipping was rather unappealing. Where did you see this, Ebay?

Hello all you great members of this amazing forum. On my saga to repair my i-Miev, last I left was that the waffle plate H Bridge IGBTs are bad, some shorted, some open. Tried several things to remove the epoxy, and with no replacement used charger in sight, plus no decent offers with the car on...

Giving up on the waffle plate. Cannot do anything with the epoxy. Tried boiling, applying heat, hammering, acetone, nothing clears this beast. Plus, on further troubleshooting it looks like all the IGBTs of the H Bridge are defective, which is an extensive repair, would be much easier without...

I just finished going through this exercise and yes, it's really hard to unsolder. Whatever you do, do not pull, since it can remove traces and/or damage the board. I followed the schematic on post #1,197 as to see which points could need more time: single signal points would require less time...

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c You wanted to see... Here's how I found my waffle plate. Two blown IGBTs, out of the epoxy. Silver lining: i have less to dig. There is more damage, as even with these not there, I still have the same shorts. Let the digging begin!

So I've dismantled the charger with the intent of removing the waffle plate after getting my desoldering station. This is a b... to remove! So far no success. I've regretfully seen something else that concerns me: one of the IGBT exploded, taking the epoxy out and it looks like the epoxy took...

Good Morning... Thanks Kenny for post #1,215, forced me to check all pins in the waffle board connections. I'm happy and sad i believe I've found the issue. I got a short between pins 25 and 26 plus from there to T4A from the schematic on post #1,197 (thank you LDTVN, left a like). Since I'm...

Thank you Mr. Kenny, will do. Checking on, reached post #109 where skylogger reinstalled the charger to the car and worked. I do not have a MUT-III, I wonder if all that needs to happen from here is simply to clear any codes only visible with the MUT-III and not a regular OBD (I've got the...

Good Morning, and thank you again! Voltages to capacitors are close to the values on post 86. TR310 has appropriate drops with the multimeter like a regular mosfet. F701 is good, so is the Schottky diode D715. There is continuity all the way through the ribbon cable from D715 and before (fuse)...