Recent content by ZsoZso

Thank you. I have bought a cheap multi-meter with diode function, fully disconnected and removed the board and gone through the measurements. The good news is, that the wrong directions all read disconnect, and the correct directions all measure some voltage drop similar to the values on your...

Unfortunately, it is the same single code: P1A12 - OBC abnormal stop OK, I started doing some measurements but got unexpected readings, maybe I am misunderstanding what to do. I am looking at this picture: Based on the Upper Right section, I should be able to measure - URD7 diode between...

How can I check that ? Do I have to de-solder all those (many) connection points -- two rows on each side to remove the plate from the bottom board ? The diodes are in between the heat sink and the bottom board, so can't really see them to determine if there is any burn signs. The ceramic...

I put it back together, also replaced the dead fuse in MCU and burned out capacitor: Now, there is some improvement: - no red 12V battery charge indicator error light - no yellow drive unit error light when I turn it on However, it is still not charging. The code reader shows only 1 error...

Operation pin-swap completed. I also made (an ugly) solder-blob to connect 49-50 on the board if they are both ground to share. Now it is getting dark, so I wait for tomorrow morning to put the board back into the car and test.

Correction, the F102 is not blown, checked with an ohm meter and it shows near-zero resistance. The fuse inside the MCU is blown, but I got the replacement for that already. The connector I got to replace the NC1 is not an exact match (different plastic cover shape, not compatible with the...

Thanks for the great info guys! The mystery of the desoldering is interesting indeed. My guess is that it was never soldered in the first place -- sloppy manufacturing job ? I can push the connector back onto the 2 metal clips at the end, then it is held firmly in place with the pins making...

Taken apart the OBC,. Looks like I got a fried capacitor: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pzE6NvqwundQ5w489 hmmm, need to figure out how to post image, google photo link does not seem to work... It is the top blue one in the doghouse surrounded by the black conformal coating on this picture (this is...

Thanks for the explanation of those codes. I have replaced the 12V battery and put in a fully charged new one. Now, I got 2 new codes: P0A09 DCDC converter fail P1A12 On board charger abnormal stop

Hi All, I have a 2011 i-Miev that stopped charging a couple of days ago. Tried to make an appointment at the local dealer, the first available time is in 2 weeks, so I got an iCarsoft reader to try to figure out what is the problem. When I plugin the AC charger, the car shows the icon for the...

Me and my wiffe share 2 cars, the i-Miev and a Subaru-XV. For daily commute to work, she drives the Subaru, because she drives less (only ~15km x2), while I take the i-Miev with a round-trip of ~80km driving both kids to school then to my office and home. But for the evening/week-end...

You are right. I must have mis-clicked something on my calculator :oops:

I added my location and as far as I know there is only one Mitsubishi dealer in my city: http://www.brampton-mitsubishi.ca/ BTW, I had another negative experience with them, described in this thread: http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=1869

I have done a 1 year checkup and it was a funny experience that I do not wish to repeat. 1. First when I called up to make an appointment for it I asked what will the service include. They said, well it should be a service 'B' if its one year. I said, OK, but what's in a service 'B'. They said...

Do I interpret this graph correctly if I conclude that the max regen is only about 4.5kW (328V with -120A)? That sounds very little compared to the Tesla Model S which has 60kW max regen.