Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

[coulomb]

Is there information how manually switch on main contactors?

Find the original of the below on http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/i-miev/on ... dex_M1.htm .



From the Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger (OBC), DC-DC Converter topic, first page.

You will then have the pinouts for the connectors, just energise what you need with a 12 V supply or battery, with the service plugs disconnected. I have no idea how practical this is to do with a car on the ground. See also Imiev repair - precharge resistor (Australian Electric Vehicle Association forum). I don't think that the contactor coils are polarity sensitive (e.g. economiser present, or catch diode), but perhaps it's worth checking.

[kiev]

i think your contactors are damaged from back in April 2018 (see page 4) when you tried to start and then drove the car with a loose negative terminal on the Aux battery. The contactor coil was de-energized while under load (current was flowing thru the contact junction) and arcing occurred across the contact gap. Now the surface has been damaged and the resistance of the junction has been affected.

So this is manifest as an intermittent fault due to arcing debris on the contacts: sometimes it will make a good contact and you get READY; sometimes it makes a poor contact and you get ~10V drop across the contacts, slow charging of the MCU condenser, car will not start and it throws the P1A15 DTC.

This fault has progressively gotten worse. Back then you could sometimes get READY, now it is so bad that you will rarely get it to start.

[Lic]

It makes sense to me. Any suggestions?

[kiev]

Maybe the pack is under warranty? If so then pursue replacement; if not then it seems to me that the contactors will need to be replaced.

[Lic]

Yes, battery is under warranty, but I did already one attempt to show it to dealer and as you know dealer was not so good in finding out what is problem and how to solve it. Should I try one more time? How I can prove that problem in pack?

[kiev]

Do you have a voltmeter? You never responded about the test i mentioned on page 6:

"One way to check would be put a voltmeter on the EV-ECU line that commands Main[+] and see if it goes to 12V when trying to start. EVECU is under the rear seat, yellow wire in connector 111, terminal 107, check voltage between here and ground/chassis."

Also use a voltmeter to measure the open circuit voltage of the Aux battery, then measure it with the key turned to ON and START. Post the data, orr take a picture of the reading and post that.

Check and replace the low-voltage supply relays that provide power for the EVECU and BMU. These may have been damaged by a loose negative terminal also, although if their supply is low then it should trigger a DTC. But the Main(+) contactor coil is driven by current from the EVECU thru the tiny supply relay.

One other test: if the Main(+) is not coming on, then it seems that the car would not be able to charge; Does the car charge anymore?

What DTCs are showing up on your scanner?

[Lic]

It does not make sense to check main(+) contactor because EV-ECU will attempt to use it only if condenser will get full voltage from battery through precharge resistor. In my case car stops this processes. If EV-ECU will apply main(+) contactor before getting full battery voltage on condenser - it could be small "badaboom".
Same thing said PV1 earlier

KiEV, the main positive contactor won't engage until the condenser is at pack voltage. Since the condenser tops out 12 volts shy of pack voltage, the car errors and never connects the pack.

Check and replace the low-voltage supply relays that provide power for the EVECU and BMU. These may have been damaged by a loose negative terminal also, although if their supply is low then it should trigger a DTC. But the Main(+) contactor coil is driven by current from the EVECU thru the tiny supply relay.

Do you know where located those relays?

I will do measure voltage on 12v battery when I try to switch on car. I checked it before and didn't see anything unusual but I don't have exact numbers.

Car doesn't charge right now. And it is obvious - same problem, condenser charge timeout flag.

Right now I am getting only one DTC - P1A15 is High-Voltage System Error #1

[kiev]

Start your own thread instead of glomming on to someone else's.

If you won't take the measurements and collect the data that i recommend or request, then i can't waste anymore time trying to help.

Maybe PV1 can solve your problem since you seem to think that he knows more about troubleshooting than i do.

[coulomb]

Do you know where located those relays?

From the Troubleshooting thread:
http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/i-miev/on ... 800ENG.HTM

[Lic]

If you won't take the measurements and collect the data that i recommend or request, then i can't waste anymore time trying to help.

Maybe PV1 can solve your problem since you seem to think that he knows more about troubleshooting than i do.

I don't see why you tell me this?
You can check on working car - main (+) connects only after getting on condenser full battery voltage.