"Manual" Pre-Climate Control

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DogMan12

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Messages
64
Location
Kooskooskie, WA
With the charger running, I have turned the key to ACC and turned on the heat. Maybe I am too impatiient, but I don't get warm air. The fan runs, but that seems to be it.

Do I have to use the Remote to get pre-drive cabin conditioning?
 
To get the heater running, you need the 'Ready' light and you can't get that with the charger plugged in . . . . so, yes, to preheat or cool while charging you need to use the remote

Don
 
DogMan12 said:
With the charger running, I have turned the key to ACC and turned on the heat. Maybe I am too impatiient, but I don't get warm air. The fan runs, but that seems to be it.

Do I have to use the Remote to get pre-drive cabin conditioning?
I've found the same thing. When charging, you turn the key to ACC and select heat or air conditioning, but you do not get heat or air conditioning and all you can control is the fan speed. So if you want to sit in your car and get heat or air conditioning while charging, you have to remember to bring your remote with you.

Mitsubishi should have designed the i-MiEV to let you use full air conditioning and limited (1kW Level 1, 2kW Level 2) heating while charging.

Does anyone know how to reprogram the i-MiEV's computer?
Here's my wish list:
1. Heat and AC during charging.
2. Sport driving mode that allows full power (amps) to the motor at start (I want smoky burnouts!)
3. Fan and/or AC battery pack cooling during driving and charging.
 
RobertC said:
Does anyone know how to reprogram the i-MiEV's computer?
Here's my wish list:
1. Heat and AC during charging.
2. Sport driving mode that allows full power (amps) to the motor at start (I want smoky burnouts!)
3. Fan and/or AC battery pack cooling during driving and charging.
I would LOVE #2 on your list!

Wait. That doesn't sound right. I don't mean that I want you to add #2 to your list.
 
I still doubt cooking water to warm air is conservative use of energy. We have got a 3 kW charger and a 5 kW heater so getting those 5 kW from the charger and not from the mains is another bottle neck.

I do not have the remote and I cannot add it. I dont think I missed anything.

I do preheat with a 2 kW fan and heater and it seems to do as much as our 5 kW i-MiEV heater does.

I have isolated doors and trunk lid. That helped a lot. But I have not isolated the heater yet. I am sure that improves the original heater.

I am looking at the ceiling ...

Not ready to remove the roof liner yet. Maybe something below the liner and removing it when winter is over?

Cheers
Peter and Karin
 
peterdambier said:
I still doubt cooking water to warm air is conservative use of energy.
I agree - It's a holdover from the ICE powered version which had tons of waste heat, so it didn't need to be efficient
I do not have the remote and I cannot add it. I dont think I missed anything.
Yes, you did. If you live anywhere with a cold winter climate, using the remote to pre-heat the car is quick and simple - You don't even have to get up early, or even go to the garage to do anything. Just look at all of the shenanigans you yourself are forced to go through because you don't have remote preheating
I do preheat with a 2 kW fan and heater and it seems to do as much as our 5 kW i-MiEV heater does.
Given time, it doesn't even do as much as our 3.3KW remote pre-heater does . . . . and of course it's a pain in the neck as mentioned earlier
I have isolated doors and trunk lid. That helped a lot. But I have not isolated the heater yet. I am sure that improves the original heater.
Your English is near flawless, Peter - Hundreds of times better than my German! :lol:
But, the word is insulated and if you'll check your English dictionary, you'll see that isolated has a completely different meaning

Don
 
Don, I should know.

I am living close to the UK and they regularly isolate the continent. :lol:

It used to be the fog but now it is french nuclear power plants on strike. They'll always find a reason why it is dangerous to cross the channel in a boat or on a train.

Thanks for correcting.

Cheers
Peter and Karin
 
Don said:
But, the word is insulated and if you'll check your English dictionary, you'll see that isolated has a completely different meaning
I hear Swedes, who speak excellent English, make the same mistake. It's easy to understand why, though. The Swedish word for insulate is isolera. But English, with its mishmash of German and Latin word roots, apparently chose the Latin word root, insula, rather than the German word root, isolieren. Nevertheless, I'm pretty certain that we all understood what Peter was saying which is the bottom line for communication.

Carry on…
 
Don said:
peterdambier said:
I do not have the remote and I cannot add it. I dont think I missed anything.
Yes, you did. If you live anywhere with a cold winter climate, using the remote to pre-heat the car is quick and simple - You don't even have to get up early, or even go to the garage to do anything. Just look at all of the shenanigans you yourself are forced to go through because you don't have remote preheating
As far as I know it's not possible to add the remote to a car that wasn't supplied with it, so easy pre-heating during charging is a non-starter :-(
 
I have to admit I find this whole thread a little confusing. I use my remote pre-heating through the winter, don't recall ever having a problem with it. What's the basis for resisting use of the remote? Is it that you want to use an external timer, so power isn't available in the morning? If so, I'd say the remote timer generally works okay, once you learn to toggle around with it and stop being alarmed by the spurious error messages (I have never had it confirm a successful operation and NOT work), and the remote pre-heating is well worth the bother.

To our European friends, my sympathies. It seems an unfortunate feature to have left off - but then, so is the heated passenger seat that Canada gets and the U.S. didn't.
 
Don said:
To get the heater running, you need the 'Ready' light and you can't get that with the charger plugged in . . . . so, yes, to preheat or cool while charging you need to use the remote

Don

So... to preheat while not charging the only way is to run out of the house on a cold morning, turn the key to ready and let the heater warm while you wait in the house for it to warm up? Of course you are using some of your range to heat but if you have plenty of range for your commute (mine is only 9 miles to work) then it should be no problem correct?
 
gmarcucio said:
So... to preheat while not charging the only way is to run out of the house on a cold morning, turn the key to ready and let the heater warm while you wait in the house for it to warm up? Of course you are using some of your range to heat but if you have plenty of range for your commute (mine is only 9 miles to work) then it should be no problem correct?
Yes, what you described will work if you are unable to plug the car in.

Unfortunately, when the car is not plugged in and even though the Remote connects with the car, it will not activate the climate controls (results in an ERROR). I just tried it. Pity.

I always plug in our iMiEV in the evening (L1) and then usually pre-set my charging start time and finish time to end charging at about 13-14 bars about 1/2-hour before one of us will be leaving the house.

Now that it's winter (sort-of), about 20-minutes before leaving in the morning, using the Remote, I turn on the heater or, if it's really cold (that's relative in California) I turn on the defroster.

The Remote has proven itself to work perfectly every time using the Mitsu L1 EVSE, the Mitsu EVSEUpgrade.com on either L1 or L2, or Clipper Creek L1 EVSE, but is very temperamental (i.e., often produces ERRROR) using the SPX Xpress L2 EVSE. As Vike pointed out, if you do NOT receive an ERROR, it is working as programmed.
 
If Mitsubishi is reading this forum then I would like to request that they enable remote heating and cooling without the charger being connected.

Canion just recently revealed that on l1 most of the preheating energy comes from the battery anyways. It would be nice to be able to preheat/cool the car while it's parked normally. It seems to me this would be a programming change.

But perhaps you could fool the car into thinking it's plugged in by supplying a pilot signal and no ac power. I wonder if that would be enough to get the preheater to engage and take power from the battery..... Hmmmm....

Don......
 
Just checking back in on this thread, and I find this very strange discussion about "pre-heating/cooling" while the car is NOT plugged in. Umm, guys - that makes approximately zero sense. Either heat or a/c on MAX moves the cabin temperature pretty quickly. Yeah, it hits the battery a bit, but nothing like heating or cooling while nobody's in the car. If your trip's so short there isn't time for the cabin to warm up or cool down, then why bother?

Such a feature would have an excellent chance of stranding absent-minded or careless owners, especially those that get interrupted while on their way to the car. It ain't happenin' - and be glad for that.
 
JoeS said:
I always plug in our iMiEV in the evening (L1) and then usually pre-set my charging start time and finish time to end charging at about 13-14 bars about 1/2-hour before one of us will be leaving the house.

Now that it's winter (sort-of), about 20-minutes before leaving in the morning, using the Remote, I turn on the heater or, if it's really cold (that's relative in California) I turn on the defroster.

The Remote has proven itself to work perfectly every time using the Mitsu L1 EVSE, the Mitsu EVSEUpgrade.com on either L1 or L2, or Clipper Creek L1 EVSE, but is very temperamental (i.e., often produces ERRROR) using the SPX Xpress L2 EVSE. As Vike pointed out, if you do NOT receive an ERROR, it is working as programmed.

I think this might be helping me to shed a light on my remote issues. The past 2 mornings I have tried to use my remote to pre-heat but it has failed. By the time I use the car is fully charged, and I was starting to wonder if for some reason it would only work if it was actively charging.....but maybe its to do with the charger/programming?! I use a Sun Country Highway LE2.

I'm wondering, in cold weather are you setting the car to charge closer to the time you will use it because it loses charge sitting in the cold?? And - once I figure out this whole remote thing - maybe I'll do the same, and that way it will still be charging when I pre-heat....and maybe it will work consistently.
 
Pre-conditioning while plugged into level 2 does give the remote some issues on certain EVSEs. With my car, I have to push send three times (after letting it come back with ERROR each time) before it takes. This is after charging has completed.
 
Vike said:
Just checking back in on this thread, and I find this very strange discussion about "pre-heating/cooling" while the car is NOT plugged in. Umm, guys - that makes approximately zero sense. Either heat or a/c on MAX moves the cabin temperature pretty quickly. Yeah, it hits the battery a bit, but nothing like heating or cooling while nobody's in the car. If your trip's so short there isn't time for the cabin to warm up or cool down, then why bother?

Such a feature would have an excellent chance of stranding absent-minded or careless owners, especially those that get interrupted while on their way to the car. It ain't happenin' - and be glad for that.
I agree

If you want the car warmed up before you get in, it makes no sense (at least to me) to find a way to do that using the car's battery - Please plug the car in and use household power to do it

What none of us know at this point is the actual cost of driving this car, long term. We all feel like we've got a bargain driving around for 2 or 3 cents per mile of electricity, but someday our battery is going to be all used up and we're going to find out what it REALLY costs to drive this car. If your battery really can manage to hang in there for 100,000 miles and if you can get it replaced for only $10,000, then you just added 10 cents a mile to your previous 2 or 3 cents for your 'fuel' usage and your new 13 cents is now above what it costs to drive many of the smaller ICE cars which get 30 to 40 mpg

Wasting some of that finite amount of battery power every morning to pre-heat the car makes very little sense when it's so simple to do it with the car plugged in and not use up your limited battery power

RobertC mentioned reprogramming the computer for 'smoky burnouts' - Pretty sure Mitsu couldn't make that happen even if they wanted to. DC drive motors have tremendous amounts of torque available from zero RPM. Both the field and the armature (correct name for an electromagnetic rotor) in the motor are powered and generate opposing magnetic fields. The more current you pour equally into the armature and the field, the greater the opposing magnetic fields you generate and so long as the wire gauge of the windings, the brushes and the controller can handle a thousand amps or so, you can burn up tires to your hearts content

The AC motors used in EV's do not work this way. Only the field is powered and the rotor is a rare earth permanent magnet, so the largest amount of power you can get at low RPM is powering up the field so that it's magnetic field matches the limited power of the rotor's permanent magnet . . . . you cannot go beyond that. The AC motor actually has a very limited amount of torque at very low RPM's because it's limited by the strength of the rotor's permanent magnet, so to get 'smoky burnouts' you'd need a much larger, more powerful AC motor than the iMiEV came with

The massive torque that DC motors can generate is offset by the one big disadvantage all DC motors suffer from - Since the powered rotor (armature) has windings, it cannot safely spin much faster than 5,000 RPM or so without the armature windings flying off and that means many DC powered EV's need a multi-speed transmission so they can get both good low end torque and adequate freeway speeds - They can't do both. Our AC motor by comparison is computer limited to 10,000 RPM which gets us 81 MPH without the need for a two speed transmission. The other big advantage we have is that our limited low end torque makes it hard to tear up driveline pieces. If you replaced our AC motor with a 'smoky burnout' DC motor, you would then be reading here about broken axles, CV joints, gearboxes and other parts which are safely sized for our more gentle AC motor

All around, AC powered EV's are much better than DC powered ones, with the singular exception that we can't do smoky burnouts - We have regen and the DC guys don't. I'm not for trading my regen for smoky burnouts :mrgreen:

Don
 
wildfire said:
I think this might be helping me to shed a light on my remote issues. The past 2 mornings I have tried to use my remote to pre-heat but it has failed. By the time I use the car is fully charged, and I was starting to wonder if for some reason it would only work if it was actively charging.....but maybe its to do with the charger/programming?! I use a Sun Country Highway LE2.
No, nothing to do with whether the car is actually charging at that point or not. What you're seeing is a compatibility issue between the the iMiEV and the L2 EVSE (with my SPX, I have yet to figure out a pattern as to when it will accept or when it will give an ERROR). Try using the Remote with your Mitsu L1 EVSE and you'll find that it works perfectly every time.

wildfire said:
I'm wondering, in cold weather are you setting the car to charge closer to the time you will use it because it loses charge sitting in the cold?? And - once I figure out this whole remote thing - maybe I'll do the same, and that way it will still be charging when I pre-heat....and maybe it will work consistently.
No, it has nothing to do with the traction pack losing charge - it holds its charge for many many months (but not the 12v battery which will readily deplete due to small continuous loads). The reason for charging the car just before leaving is my (admittedly paranoid) attempt to try to prolong the life of the main battery pack (it's not good for the pack to sit fully fully charged for long periods of time, especially in hot weather).
 
JoeS said:
wildfire said:
I'm wondering, in cold weather are you setting the car to charge closer to the time you will use it because it loses charge sitting in the cold?? And - once I figure out this whole remote thing - maybe I'll do the same, and that way it will still be charging when I pre-heat....and maybe it will work consistently.
No, it has nothing to do with the traction pack losing charge - it holds its charge for many many months (but not the 12v battery which will readily deplete due to small continuous loads). The reason for charging the car just before leaving is my (admittedly paranoid) attempt to try to prolong the life of the main battery pack (it's not good for the pack to sit fully fully charged for long periods of time, especially in hot weather).
I wait to charge until I need the car so that the battery pack temperature is kept at a nice warm level for better efficiency. If I charge at night and forget to program it for the morning, them my pack temperature is usually around 10 to 12 c and sometimes lower, but if I wait until I need the car then my pack temperature is between 18c and 20c on a frosty 0c morning. I've definitely seen lower kilometers per kilowatt hour when the pack temperature is lower.
 
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