What is your average range?

Give us a number and then tell us a little about your style of driving, terrain, miles per day, etc.

78-80 every morning i drive stop and go highway 60mph or expressway at 70-75mph i drive it like a normal car because i can charge at work.

i use 6-8kw to go 40-45 or so miles.

JrCRXHF said:

78-80 every morning i drive stop and go highway 60mph or expressway at 70-75mph i drive it like a normal car because i can charge at work.

i use 6-8kw to go 40-45 or so miles.

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Kw useage seems very favorable. So your range is what? 78-80 miles or 40-45? I mean what is your car capable of on one charge over a day or two?

car says 78-80 i go about 40-45 every day before i charger i still have 1/2 or so left just depends on head wind and so on.

JrCRXHF said:

car says 78-80 i go about 40-45 every day before i charger i still have 1/2 or so left just depends on head wind and so on.

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So it sounds like you are averaging at least 80-90 miles per charge.

Is anybody getting less than the 63 miles per charge that the EPA tells Mitsubishi to use in their advertising?

I don't usually use a full charge, and I don't usually recharge to 100%. Gauging by the "Range Remaining" that I see when my "tank" is half full, I'm getting about 75 miles per charge. So far, I have found the Range Remaining to be accurate.

I drive mostly expressways - 40-55 mph, some stop and go. Maybe 10% freeway driving in my usual trips. I don't try to hypermile, but I often try to drive frugally. Sometimes I get zippy, though I usually drive in "E" mode to avoid my innate tendency for jackrabbit starts.

Jenn

I've driven my i now all of 2 days. It looks like I'll be getting about 70 miles out of a charge, assuming a linear monitor level. The charge level indicator has 16 bars, and that's 4-5 miles per bar. I keep seeing posts that say "range remaining." I don't have that, probably because I have an ES. So I count bars.

The driving I do is relatively rural... mostly 25-50 mph on roads with ups & downs and curves. The first/last 6 miles of my daily commute is 2000' of altitude loss/gain. I go down mostly in Eco mode with a little B, and appear to use zero power for the first 13 miles of my commute. When I go back up, it takes 3-4 bars, a quarter of a charge. My daily jaunt is 30-40 mi and I drive conservatively.

It took me a little while to get used to the drive modes. There is no good information about when to use which mode. I wrongly assumed at first that B mode would provide the best economy no matter what. In fact, B mode seems to use far more power than D mode in certain conditions, such as a consistent hill climb. Eco and B mode reduce forward momentum. So when you need to retain that forward momentum, such as uphill or higher speeds, you use more power to work against Eco and B mode. Eco mode is great for stop/go driving. B mode seems useful primarily if you want to use the engine as a brake, going down hill.

So it looks like I should have included brakes into my cost saving calculations. In my gas vehicle I need new brakes every other year.

Range Remaining is located where the odometer is. If you push the selector button on the gauge, the odometer will cycle through different info, including outside temperature and two trip odometers. When you get to the mile counter with the arrow (looks like a line) at the bottom of the display, this is range remaining. The difference between B and D is the amount of regen when you lift off the throttle, forward power remains untouched. ECO reduces throttle sensitivity and bumps up regen from D. This should get you the best range, and B is helpful for downhill. The first inch or so of brake pedal travel controls regen, friction coming in afterwards. Youy may stil use standard brakes, but they will last longer.

I'll echo what PV1 said. Eco and Braking mode can work against you if you pull your foot off the accelerator too suddenly and you find yourself re-applying your foot to the accelerator fo finish out your stop, or to regain momentum.

Honestly, I'm thinking regen is the same whether you use drive, eco, braking, or the brake pedal. Eco might be good in real tight city traffic, and braking might be good if you are descending a very long steep hill and you would rather not keep your foot on the brake...but I think all methods are equally effective in regeneration.

Thanks, PV1. I've read a good ways into the manual, and haven't come across this yet. I'll switch it on as soon as I my car back again. It's being wrapped.

All I know is that when I drove the 6 miles up 2000' elevation gain to my house in B mode, it took 5 bars, all I had, and fell 2 miles short of the goal! When I did the same drive in D mode, it took 3-4 bars to make the entire distance. Nothing like learning the hard way.

D gives max power and small regen
ECO physically makes it harder to push the accelerator and changes the amount of power for a given pedal position, artificially inducing the driver to not expend as much energy; however, flooring it will give you max power (a good safety feature).
Regen is greater in ECO than in D.
B gives max power and high regen.
Gently pushing the brake (before the hydraulic system engages) gives max regen.
The red needle in the blue zone gives you some idea of what you're regenerating.
See this for the numbers: http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=288