Lost a Bar Overnight First Time

Mitsubishi i-MiEV Forum

Help Support Mitsubishi i-MiEV Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

thomash85715

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2017
Messages
46
Worried about shrinking range on successive level 2 charges done at my house over last two years, I did a long slow level one two nights ago. It took 13 hours and got me 16 bars with 55 miles on countdown guess o meter. It had been 84 when I got the car with about 23K miles on it; now it's 28K. CanIon reports about 70% capacity and there is some variation on individual cell volts. The factory warranty expires in a few weeks on the traction battery. Car is a 2012 first sold in jan of 13; thus the ticking 96 month clocks.
But today after not even starting it for a full day, I had 15 bars and 51 miles. Overnight temp was around 40F. This has never occurred. I can trade it at the mitsu dealer for some reasonable money; the question is SHOULD I get rid of it before it completely fails and the factory won't fix it? Or is this loss of range with zero load a de facto failure? Impossible to reach anyone at HQ for weeks I expect; last time it took a month for them to reply to basic warranty question.
What would you all do? Thank you.
 
You don't say where you live, but USA cars had the factory battery warranty extended from 8 years to 10

So long as it still serves the purpose you bought it for, I wouldn't be trading it in - I have 2 cars with batteries worse off than yours and I'm keeping them . . . . but I will admit I kinda hope their batteries give up the ghost sometime in the next two years :lol:

Don
 
I am in USA and this is first I am hearing of extension. Does anyone have a link to confirmation of this?
 
I now live in 85745 other side of tucson from 85715. I was in a sudden panic my main battery was failing a month before EIGHT year warranty runs out but now seem confident my car has two years PLUS a month to go. I was ready to trade it in tomorrow at the mitsu dealer. If you want to talk or trade info, thomashjr at gmail dot com is my outside link. Also on the FB group for the car. Thomas Higgins. Thank you.
 
Um, thomash85715, a few points, if I may -

1. Amount of time it takes the car to charge, irrespective of Level 1 or Level 2, has nothing to do with the end RR reading.

2. EXACTLY what Amp-hour reading did CaniOn give? 70% does not tell us which baseline you used. My guess is that your capacity is around 35Ah.

3. The Range Remaining (our gauge, unlike seemingly in other cars, doesn't guess) is a function of how the car is driven the preceding 15 miles and the prediction assumes that the driving conditions remain the same. To this day I defy anyone to accurately predict what their full-charge RR will be. 15 bars and 51 miles or 16 bars and 55 miles sounds ok to me for a winter RR.

4. The battery warranty has been extended to ten years, but IIRC we still don't have a post showing a letter from Mitsubishi announcing this.

5. I have no idea what you mean by "...loss of range with zero load..."

6. Living in Tucson, I presume you rarely, if ever, fully fully charged the car and left it alone fully charged in the sun? :roll:

7. Since you have CaniOn, are all the cell voltages fairly even (i.e., within 5mv of each other) at high SoC? How about at a low SoC?
thomash85715 said:
What would you all do?
I'd roll over and go back to sleep, knowing that I have the best utility vehicle for all my local driving.

If you're still concerned, go to a Tesla or Bolt or KonaEV or NiroEV or... dealer this week to see what trade-in value they will give you for one of their EVs as they attempt to meet their year-end numbers... if you trade it in for an ICE vehicle, I won't ever talk to you again! :evil: :p
 
JoeS said:
If you're still concerned, go to a Tesla or KonaEV dealer this week to see what trade-in value they will give you for one of their EVs as they attempt to meet their year-end numbers... if you trade it in for an ICE vehicle, I won't ever talk to you again!
The trade in you get with a 2012 iMiEV will be $3K, give or take $200 if your car is low miles and in excellent shape - If they offer you more than that, it's because they are recouping their loss by charging you more than they would on their product, if you were paying cash for it with no trade

In the automotive world today, what's a better use of $3K than driving an iMiEV?? I sure as heck don't know

Don
 
Back
Top