Page 2 of 54

Diagnostic Trouble Codes for OBC stored in EV-ECU

Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 5:04 am
by kiev
Probably the first thing after a failure is to get a readout of the Diagnostic Trouble Codes stored in the EV-ECU, either at a dealer using the MUT3 or using a clone device such as the i909 from iCarSoft. If you can get those codes then we can help to give some idea of which circuits to look at in the box.

The EV-ECU stores the DTCs that can be read over the CAN buss thru the OBDII port by the MUT3 or a clone.

P1A10 On board charger power supply relay circuit, low input
P1A11 On board charger power supply relay circuit, high input
P1A12 On board charger abnormal stop
P1AF6 On board charging time time-out
P1AF7 On board charger READY time-out
P1AF8 On board charging stop processing time-out
P1B0C On board charging current error (overcurrent)
P1B21 On board charger output current error

U111D On board charger CAN time-out

DTC for DCDC Converter

Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 5:46 am
by kiev
Diagnostic Trouble Codes for the DCDC Converter:

P0A09 DCDC converter turns off for 4 seconds or more when commanded on
P0A10 DCDC converter stays on for 2 seconds or more when commanded off

Found the culprit- a popped disc capacitor.

Posted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 10:41 pm
by jray3
While packing my failed charger for shipping to Kiev, I took a look under the top circuit board and found the culprit, or at least one of them.
One of the two blue disc capacitors on the lower board, with about half of the disc sticking up out of the black potting compound is completely popped apart. The two big white resistors still appear fine, bright white without cracking or browning.

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger, DC-DC Converter

Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 6:57 am
by kiev
The blue caps in the doghouse surrounded by the black conformal coating.


Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger, DC-DC Converter

Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 7:30 am
by skylogger
I'm adding a discussion that was on a PM to this thread, as it might be helpfull to others:
It sounds like you have done quite a bit of research to getting this fixed.

The CAN buss probably controls the functioning of the box so that may hinder testing, but the spare pack and 12V is a good idea.

There is also the 1 khz pwm handshake signal thru the level 1 charge port to consider.

Supposedly the charger box is not VIN coded, so maybe it could be piggy-back connected to your car's CAN and come on, but the system is probably too integrated for that to work. Something has to trigger the AC input relay and then it would need PFC voltage and current control, as well as charger output voltage and current control.

i think it would be a good idea for you to post up about this PM, your charger issue, testing, repairs, status, etc. You could either start a new one dedicated to your situation or put it in the charger troubleshooting thread.

take care,

Hi Kiev:

Before taking the charger out of the car, I took the lid off, and "hindged the top PCB over so I could look at the parts in the doghouse. I see there must be two versions, as I have seen one version with two blue thru hole caps, and another version with a vertical small pcb with SMD Caps on it. The version we have has the SMD CAPs on it. I saw on the previous thread that someone found the part markings for the caps, and came up with murata part numbers. The charger just got removed from the car, and I will be picking it up tomorrow so I can continue working on it. I can use the chopstick method of removing the potting so I can see if resistors are also blown.
The 20amp fuse in the Inverter is also blown, so that is why both the AC charger and the DC-DC Functions are both not working. Since the caps were blown away, at this stage I do not know if anything else is shorted to cause the 20 amp fuse to blow. After I fix all the problems with the components in the doghouse, I probably will need to remove the board it is attached to so I can get down to the heatsink and see if any of the MOSFETs are shorted. I saw someone say that all of the solder connections along the two white strips need to be desoldered before the PCB Can be removed from the box. I think all of the solder points along the white strips are actually the leads from the MOSFETS. So it might be able to check the MOSFETS without completely removing the PCB. Another thought I had, was that the reason it was thought that all the solder connections had to be desoldered to remove the PCB, was because the MOSFETs are fixed to the Heatsink, but the Heatsink is probably just fitted to the cooling tank with heatsink compound, causing a seal that is hard to break. This is pressured down with the PCB is pulled down when the screws in the standoffs are tightened down.

Yes I am familair with the hack to apply 12v to the pin on the QC Relay to fource the contacts to close and allow use of the Chademo port. I've built two "Electric Jerry cans" that I put inside the cargo area, and use a TDK 48V to 360v DC-DC Converter fed through the Chademo port to charge the traction battery. This allows charging from the Jerry cans, even while driving. It should be noted that this method can only be used when the car is in the "READY" state, so the car thinks the charging current comming in is the same as regenerative braking and the BMU Calculates the charge as such.

I wonder if the 20amp fuse blew just because a power surge happened, or if there is actual MOSFET Damage causing a short that blew the fuse. I have a spare battery pack that was removed from another car, that I can use as a load. I don't know if the charger will function in a dumb mode if only 240VAC is applied to the ac input, HV output is connected to my test battery, and a 12v battery is connected to the DC-DC Output. I don't know if it will work with the CANBUS Connector not connected to anything, so would it power up and just power down because of no canbus communications? This would be a great way to test everything before trying to put it back in the car.

I'll let you know what I find out when I get the unit on the bench. Look forward to more info from you, and I might cut and paste this PM Back to the thread if ok?



by kiev

Howdy sky,

Sorry to hear about the failed chargers over there in WA, but hopefully we can find a solution, especially since coulomb (Mike) in Sydney is alert to the problem. He and i have worked over several years on troubleshooting and repair of diy EV chargers.

One of the forum members has sent me his broken charger and it will be here next week. i should be able to give you an answer about repairs after i get it and clean out the doghouse.

As far as options, i think there may be two using an aftermarket charger such as from TCCH or Lear, depending upon whether or not the car has a Chademo port for Level 3 charging.

With chademo, the charger output could be connected thru the port sockets to the pack by switching on the main contactors using the dcqc relay which is located under the rear seat.

Without chademo, the charger output could be routed to the pack at the terminals located within the motor control unit and switching on the main contactors using the key switch to READY.

What is your level of comfort with handling electrical stuff? Have you pulled the charger cover to inspect for scorching or burned components?

take care,

by skylogger

Hi Kiev: I saw a discussion you had with Electronpusher in regards to repairing the charger/DC-DC Converter. Seems there are quite a few of these with the resistor and caps blown up in the "doghouse" potted section on the charger. Do you know if anyone has been able to replace these components and get a unit back up and running? Do you know if in addition to these parts, was anything else found faulty? There are two people here in Perth area with blown chargers so we are looking at what options and any updates on what can be done.

Thanks for your help,


Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger, DC-DC Converter

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 2:16 am
by skylogger
I've been able to remove the main AC Charger board out of the box. One earlier comment in this thread from another person stated that all of the solder joints along the two white strips had to be desoldered to get the PCB out of the box. This is not correct. I fist labeled and unplugged all the wires.quick disconnect connectors. I removed the big central screw and bushing. I tried slightly prying on several edges of the board thinking it had to break the seal of the heatsink compount between the heatsink and the box. It did not look like the four standoffs had to be removed, as the holes in the PCB are larger than the standoffs and it looks like the standoffs go through the PCB without making contact.
Just by luck, I went ahead and removed the four standoffs, and tried slight prying agan, and the pcb came free. It turns out that the PCB has all the pins of the power devices soldered to in along the white strips, which fixes the PCB to the power devices and heatsink, but it is the four
corner standoffs and the central screw and bushing that mount the whole assembly to the box.

I have scraped away the rubber potting inside the doghouse, and I found in my version, there is a small vertical PCB that emulates what was two thru hole caps C121 and C122 on the previous version. Some of these SMD Caps are blown away and there is a little track damage on the small vertical daughter pcb, So I plan to unsolder the PCB and replace it with the same two Thru hole caps that were in the original version. These are 2kv voltage rated caps and the value was noted earlier in this thread with someone decoding the murata part number found on one of the caps.

If you look along the edge of the PCB between the PCB and the heatsink, you can see that all of the pins from the Power devices have been bent in a dog leg so they come out from the device as 0.2" and mount to the PCB holes as 0.1" between pins. I've used an ohm meter to check across several pairs of these PCB pads, and found quite a few measure 0R and some others measure around 200R. Unless there are several different types of devices, this looks like maybe some of these devices have gone shorted.

So at this stage, it looks like I will need to desolder all the pads along the two white strips anyway, so I can remove the heatsink and power devices from the PCB. Up inside the heatsink toward the PCB side, it looks like the power devices have been potted with the same rubber potting material that the doghouse used, so it will probably take me quite a few hours to do all the desoldering, and potting removal to get down to the power devices.

I had a quick go at attaching a photo but it did not work. I'll have to get someone to tell me how to upload images direct, or find a share site that images can be uploaded to and URL Linked to.

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger, DC-DC Converter

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 7:40 am
by kiev
thanks skylogger for the information about removing the bottom board.

i've updated the first post to add links to charger issues.
and edited my posts to remove mention of desoldering for board removal.

i use a free hosting site,, for my pictures. They provide "get share links" for posting to forums which resize the photos to fit the page width. Just copy and paste the BBCode forum link from imgur into your message.

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger, DC-DC Converter

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 1:52 pm
by skylogger
Hi Kiev: Thanks for your help with posting images, I'm still missing something, as when I cut and past it just puts the litteral text of the link, the picture does not appear on the page. Below is link to a picture of the doghose that I've removed the black potting so the PCB is exposed. In this version, you can see the reference designators of C121 and C122 In front of the vertical daughter board. You can see the vaporized
SMD caps on the daughter board and the damaged tracks. The daughter board is fitted with four pins that go to the orignal C121 and C122 Thru hole cap locations. I plan to desolder the daughter board from the pins, and then use the older style thru hole caps and solder to their original positions.

Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger, DC-DC Converter

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 2:27 pm
by kiev
Okay i can click and see the picture.

But to make it show on the forum, you need to use the "Share Links". In the upper right hand corner of the picture while you are on imgur, there will be a pull-down menu, or it may show up to the right hand side of the picture if you click on the thumbnail of it while in your account.

Here's what i see when i click on the thumbnail and it enlarges to show the share links on the rh side.


And here is the other method using the pulldown arrow. When you click on 'get share links' a popup box will appear in the middle of the screen with the various types. Click on the Copy button for the BBC forums, then paste it where you want it to appear in your message.


Re: Troubleshooting and repair for On-board Charger, DC-DC Converter

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 2:42 pm
by kiev
p.s. Good job on getting the board out and scrapping off the coating.

p.p.s. Current Sense Resistor R232, 8L00 = 8.00 mOhm 1%, is showing a bit of thermal scorching.