good news : chargger fixed.
Thanks to all for the tremendous help from the contributors here and on the AEVA fora and also the fuse oneviewtopic.php?f=22&t=4310
Yes the fuse(s) from Mitsubishi were "only" 28 bucks each, not bad considering the other not so easy and more expensive options.
The replacement of the caps ( I ordered four from RS in case I break them at a first attempt) needed steady hands and a bit of bush craft experience. I'm quite proud of myself,lol.
Now that my chargger and the 12V DC-DC converter are working again, I am wondering what every bodies thoughts are to prevent this to happen again (resp prevent it happen to the other iMiEVs that get a bit long in the tooth.
By the way, I checked my two J1772_ cables I use mostly for charging. The resistance between the earth pin and pin PP (plug present or proximity pilot) is the correct 150 Ohms when locked and the additional 300 Ohm (450 total) when the release trigger is pressed. Pressing the release trigger terminates charging immediately as I can observe on an analog current clamp meter. As I have repeatedly not charged the battery to completely full, aborting the charging with a timer, obviously the termination would not have been commanded by the pin PP signal. If that contributed to the weakening of the 20A fuse and or the caps is one of the questions that are worth answering. Of course the same abrupt disconnect of the
240 VAC could happen if the grid failed, but that would not happen very often.
Other reasons may be a poor auxiliary battery, just old age or what do you think?
From now on I will endeavour to let the car to end charging or let the 450 Ohm resister command the charge end.
Maybe if the corona lookdown drags on, I find time to modify the plug with a micro relay so the timer (PLC) can open and shut the 450 Ohm resister circuit? One has to have dreams.....
Cheers and keep safe,