This code relates to how long it takes for the main capacitor in the MCU to charge up to the DC buss voltage. It seems like this would be the serious issue preventing your car from READY rather than the other code.
The main fuse is accessible from the bottom thru an access cover, but the main contactors are not. The charging current goes thru the smaller fuse in the MCU shown in the picture up-thread, and it can also be accessed thru the small MCU cover.
The service tech would raise the car and open the fuse covers, remove them and measure for continuity.
If you are brave and have a good quality voltmeter, then you could open the small MCU access cover and make some measurements.
First check for voltage on the buss: connect the meter to the main pack buss [+ and -] terminals
to ensure there is no voltage, Key OFF or out of the ignition.
If there is no voltage, then you can switch to the resistance or continuity scale and measure across the charging fuse to see if it is good.
Then connect in voltage mode across the buss again and try to start and see if voltage is getting to the MCU, should see ~275 to 360 VDC depending upon the "fuel" level. When you turn the key to start, listen closely to hear if the main contactors sound off like they are trying to engage, the normal clackity-clack.
If the contactors sound off but there is no voltage, then the main fuse is likely blown, or the contacts have arc debris holding them open. The main fuse could be replaced from below, but the main contactors cannot without opening the pack cover. If the pack is within the warranty period then bad contactors would be a reason to file a claim.
If there is voltage or it comes up too slowly, then the EV-ECU throws this code.
There is not much that a service tech can do except erase the code and see if it returns, and check for bad wiring or connector issues. There is a data list item #15 that can be checked with the MUT (or MUT clone, i have done this with the i909):
STEP 7. M.U.T.-III freeze frame (FFD) data
Check the freeze frame data.
Item No. 15 : EMCU: Condenser voltage
OK result if data shows 220 V or more
Q. Is the check result normal?
Yes-Replace the inverter (MCU).
No- Replace the main battery assembly.
When you turn the key OFF, the voltage should bleed down from the main buss at the capacitor. Just be careful not to touch anything with HV present.
The time is coming when we will either need to find mechanics that are willing to open a pack to replace cells or contactors, or do it ourselves. i'm preparing for the DIY approach and may be available to help others in the future.
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