Adoepner wrote:Sensitivity is set by tilting the module after calibration. I have mine set so that it just barely activates when coasting in ECO.
What activates the brake lights? Is it a decelerometer of some sort or . . . . ? Adjusting the sensitivity by tilting the module would seem to change depending on whether you're going uphill or down
I had a rotary engine Mazda which had a decelerometer that locked up the seat belts. It was a steel ball in a spring cage which was set so that a certain amount of deceleration (in any direction) caused the ball to move (with a click) and that energized a solenoid that locked the seat belts (also with another click) so you couldn't lean forward at all - The clicks literally drove me nuts, which is why I know how the decelerometer worked . . . . after I cut it apart!
IMO. what's needed is a system which trips based on the amount of current being regenerated back into the battery. Many years ago, Joe put a clamp meter on the correct wire which gave all of us some idea of what the ammeter in the dash was telling us. IIRC, full scale deflection when standing hard on the accelerator was about 150 amps and enough regen current to peg the meter in the opposite direction was only about 75 amps, but full regen was much more
Rather than having flickering lights (my primary
objection is that any brake lights that happen with little or no slowing just put following drivers to sleep, since the brake lights keep activating but the car isn't slowing, so subconsciously, you begin to ignore them, which is worse than no brake lights at all) what you would want is a light activated by some exact amount of regenerated current. This wouldn't be that hard
to do with a simple Arduino circuit and a few loops of wire around the cable on the car to sense regen current and activate the lights only when some threshold is exceeded, say maybe 100 amps or so - 75 amps (when the needle goes down full scale) isn't very much slowing, so I assume you'd want more than that
In 50 years or so of driving manual transmission ICE's, the thought never occurred to me to want my brake lights actuated when I'm downshifting to slow down . . . . and I've never been rear ended, nor has there ever been a time when that came close to happening - If I had somebody close on my tail, I would give them one flash of my brake light before I selected a lower gear and began slowing . . . . and hopefully, over those 50 years, a few million other drivers learned not to count on brake lights to alert them so they don't rear end other cars, as there are certainly plenty of cars with completely non-functioning brake lights out there - Especially in a state like Mississippi where we currently have absolutely no form of mandatory vehicle inspection system
On my road motorcycles, I did add a simple circuit which gives 3 flashes and then solid red on the brake lights . . . . and I also ditched the filament bulbs for much, much brighter LED's in the tail light - If somebody rear ends your bike, you're probably dead, but I still had total control over the brake light when I wanted it illuminated or not. It's much easier to slow by downshifting on a bike (almost necessary, as you need to cycle through each gear to get to first so you can move away after a complete stop) and you CAN downshift and flash a brake light anytime you want/need to by gently pulling on the front bake with your right hand
I do hope you get this system you bought working to suit you . . . . but adding any delay seems counter productive if you're depending on it to keep you from getting rear ended - A quarter second delay with an inattentive driver on your tail could be the difference between getting hit and not getting hit. Probably better to watch him in your mirror and give him the brake pedal early and often