I wish I could post a picture here in a easy manner as I have a good picture of the transaxle split in two parts and you can see everything we are discussing. There are two things that need to be synchronized when adjusting the shift cable. There are the detents that you can see and feel very easily at the shifter in the car. There is a second set of detents inside the transaxle that need to line up exactly with the shifter detents. If you remove the cable from the shift arm on the transaxle you can feel them---they are really there to make sure the shift position switch is lined up correctly. The final thing is an adjustment of the electric position switch to correspond with the detent position in the transaxle. That is the purpose of the little "alignment pin" hole in the switch. Unless it is loose, the switch adjustment shouldn't be a problem. I still think there is a internal problem in the cable (stretched?) or where it clamps at either end. There cannot be any play in the cable or linkage to make this work. If you could get the car on a hoist or jack stands and someone to help you could check this all out. I would jack up the car so the rear wheels are off the ground and block the front wheels. Set the parking brake so the rear wheels cannot turn--you need to stay clear of the wheels and hands/arms away from the half-shafts when under the car just in case they do. With the car in the ready mode, have your helper put the transmission in neutral position and keep his feet away from the accelerator pedal. Disconnect the cable at the shift arm on the transaxle. Move the shift arm on the transaxle one position to either drive or reverse. Make sure you can feel the arm drop into the detent in the transaxle and ask your helper if the car is showing the proper position on the dash. Then have your helper move the gear selector to the position indicated on the dash (i.e. drive showing on the dash, move the shifter to drive) Do this for each position and each time verify that the cable end you removed from the shifter can be slipped back on the shift arm without any effort (no tugging on the cable, it should drop in place. Then pull and push on the cable end to check for any movement--there might be some but not more then a millimeter or so. When that is done, turn the car to the off position, put the shifter in park and release the parking brake. Move the transaxle shift arm to the park position and while having your helper hold one of the rear tires, rotate the other until the parking pawl drops into the lock position and neither rear tire can be rotated. Then check that the shift cable can be attached back in position and put the retainer back on the arm. BTW--the way the parking pawl is designed, depending on where the transmission gear is located when you try to put it in park, the car may or may not roll a bit until it locks in . This is normal like any other car that uses this method to lock the transmission. Also, like any other car, if you park on an incline and allow the car to roll into the position that the parking pawl drops into the gear, it wedges the two parts together and can make it very difficult to get the pawl to release with the shifter. Repeated parking in this manner can bend brackets, stretch the shift cable and mess up the adjustment between the shifter detents and the transaxle detents. If parking on a hill, always use the handbrake before releasing the service (foot) brake pedal and then put the transaxle in park. This will prevent this problem from happening. Sorry for the long post but like they say, it takes a thousand words to describe what a picture is worth. Good luck on getting this resolved.