Don
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Re: Ha! I just made a coast/neutral button!

Sat Aug 18, 2018 10:18 am

Personally, I think I'd rather have the coast switch on the shifter. My Volt has about 20 switches on the wheel and the max regen paddle behind the wheel is HUGE, but even so, it's not always easy to find when you need it if the wheel is turned. A switch on the shifter is always in the same place, very easy to 'find' without hunting for it

I do hope you can find a source for the needed connectors and make up a few of these 'plug and play' so we won't have to hack up the cars stock wiring. I know I'd buy a couple

Don
2012 iMiEV SE Premium, White
2012 iMiEV SE, White
2017 Chevy Volt Premier
2014 Ford Transit Connect XLT SWB wagon, 14,000 miles
1979 Honda CBX six into six

Gorfllub
Posts: 75
Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2018 6:08 pm

Re: Ha! I just made a coast/neutral button!

Sat Aug 18, 2018 11:42 am

The pics I took aren't very detailed. But I'll take more pics later.

So far first harness manufacturer doesn't have that plug available to them, but they are looking for it.

I haven't priced it from mits (if it's even available) but it's probably extremely expensive that way.

A tiny 2 pin plug for a Dodge is $90 from the dealer. 20 cents from the plug manufacturer. Lol.


I still want the steering wheel with switches regardless. But I know what you are saying about too many buttons. Looks like the paddle shifters are really long so that they are accessible from virtually any wheel position.

May have to start drilling holes in my shift knob next week.

Gorfllub
Posts: 75
Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2018 6:08 pm

Re: Ha! I just made a coast/neutral button!

Sat Aug 18, 2018 12:19 pm

Also, this will not fix a vehicle stuck in park.

The cable physically makes it so the car can't move.

Electrically tricking the car into thinking it's in neutral won't disengage that physical "lock".

kiev
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Re: Ha! I just made a coast/neutral button!

Sat Aug 18, 2018 2:26 pm

Which connectors would you need--the mating pairs at the gear position sensor or something under the seat? i'm putting together a Mouser order for mating connectors for the MMCS radio navigation unit and the accelerator pedal, so could get a price and add some to my order.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

Gorfllub
Posts: 75
Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2018 6:08 pm

Re: Ha! I just made a coast/neutral button!

Sat Aug 18, 2018 4:01 pm

Need male and female of the orange plug on the module under the rear seat.

But I usually see if one of the manufactures I deal with has them available before going that route.

It would be good to know if they have them though.

kiev
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JAE Electronics MX7 Series Connectors

Sat Aug 18, 2018 8:41 pm

Those orange plugs are a special cable-to-pc board connector from JAE Electronics, a 28-pin MX7 series automotive connector that neither digi-key or mouser carry or have any in stock. There is no cable connector mate, it only connects to a PC board, and there are 2 different sized pins for power and signal. It will be an expensive mess of kit to fabricate a plug-play box for this, if you could even source the parts.

i noticed that the EV-ECU side of the connector has the Mitsubishi logo. It is a 119-pin PC board header into which the 4 connectors plug: A lt blue 35-pin, B lt blue 26-pin, C Orange 28-pin, D Green 30-pin. They can be seen underneath the BMU which sits on top of the EV-ECU in this photo.

Image

Image
Last edited by kiev on Sun Aug 19, 2018 5:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

richijennings
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2018 9:21 am

Re: Ha! I just made a coast/neutral button!

Sun Aug 19, 2018 2:31 am

Brilliant work! I'd started researching this exact same idea a couple of days ago, but you've got a lot further than me.

I figured the best place for a switch is actually on the left footrest—essentially a foot switch akin to a clutch pedal. And it means you don't need to take your hand off the wheel to reach for a shifter button.

kiev
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Swapped wires for pins 12 and 14

Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:02 am

i used a small flat blade screwdriver to release the Orange secondary wire lock, then used a small allen wrench (0.028") to depress the tab and extract the sockets for D and B and swapped them. Now i shift directly into B from N. A small sewing needle or pin might work also, insert it into the "T" shaped slot and apply slight downward pressure to release the catch tab, then pull back on the wire to extract the socket.

Housing drawing here: http://www.jae.com/z-en/pdf_download_exec.cfm?param=SJ028728.pdf
Socket drawing here: http://www.jae.com/z-en/pdf_download_exec.cfm?param=SJ037507.pdf

In this picture Pin 12 is the 5th position over from the right in the middle row
Image
Q.E.D.
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

Don
Site Moderator
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Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 3:55 pm
Location: Biloxi MS

Re: Swapped wires for pins 12 and 14

Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:30 am

kiev wrote:i used a small flat blade screwdriver to release the Orange secondary wire lock, then used a small allen wrench (0.028") to depress the tab and extract the sockets for D and B and swapped them. Now i shift directly into B from N.

So, are you saying that you have switched 'B' to where 'D' used to be . . . . right below 'N' on the shifter? You just click it one notch forward and back to coast now? That would be a real improvement . . . . but I still like the idea of a coast switch

Don
2012 iMiEV SE Premium, White
2012 iMiEV SE, White
2017 Chevy Volt Premier
2014 Ford Transit Connect XLT SWB wagon, 14,000 miles
1979 Honda CBX six into six

kiev
Posts: 967
Joined: Sun May 03, 2015 7:15 am
Location: The Heart o' Dixie
Contact: Website

Re: Ha! I just made a coast/neutral button!

Sun Aug 19, 2018 9:51 am

Yes that is it exactly. i like the idea of a switch also, but this will do what i want--drive around in B and N using just one slot. i wanted to have either max power and braking, or coasting, with just one short shift.

No button, no soldering, no relays, no cost, and easily reversed back to OEM config.

[EDIT]
Drove the car in to town and it worked great, just as expected.

Later in the hot afternoon on the way home something tripped out and it threw the RBS, ! HV, Aux Battery, ASC lights and then went into Turtle, and the gear position on the fuel gauge was blinking. Stopped and restarted to READY and drove home with no more drama.

Not sure what tripped it, but i may have been shifting to N really fast while the regen was really high in B mode. i will test it some more, probably drive without the rapid shifting B-N-B-N, and then try to get it confused again. Checked the aux battery, 2 yrs old, measured 13.11 OCV, added some water to all the cells, those closest to the terminals were slightly lower than the rest.

Shifting to N while at max regen is probably a dumb move--there is a lot of energy stored up in the rotating magnetic field that will need to be dissipated, and blowing up the MCU would increase operating and repair costs beyond any benefit from this mod...
kiev = kenny's innovative electric vehicle

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