Rapid charging produces more heating in the cells than regular charging, and that may be the cause of your issue. i realize there may be no other option for you, but as long as the cells will charge and car will drive, then i would ride that pony till the stirrups are dragging in the dirt.

That is great news! We have never heard of this failure--Please find out exactly which wire had the corrosion issue if possible. There are 4 possible: an AC input harness, the control harness, the 12V output wire from the DC/DC to the auxillary battery, and the High Voltage DC wires from the OBC to ...

... After I charge it, I can drive about 50 metres, but then the power drops. Simultaneously, I get a bunch of warning lights... The thing is, when I park at home and leave the car for an hour or so, it's perfectly fine when I switch on again (no warning lights), and I know from experience that I a...

That is an interesting idea, i'm sure we will all be wanting to see how it works. From what i have found there are several 12V lines running to the OBC/DCDC converter, some have fuses and are connected directly from the auxillary battery and are "hot" all the time. But the wiring is small ...

oh yes i agree arc flash is more accurate description.

You probably should check or replace the AC relay since the ceramic resistor fused. i'm guessing maybe for some reason that relay opened while charging--that might explain the damages.

It's possible, but i can't recall anyone reporting such a failure. Also to have 2 cars with this failure in the same vicinity--what a coincidence of such a rare failure mode? Makes me think there should be some DTC codes related to the BMU--my scantool will read such codes if the EV-ECU throws them ...

There is a High limit on aux voltage supply to the ECUs, i think it is about 16.8VDC in the FSM. Most external chargers don't go that high, but the high current "starter" chargers can supply 50-80 Amps and likely do go higher than 17V. i would never use a starter-charger on an EV, too many...

WOW! Never seen so much smoke damage before, that thing really exploded.

There is discoloration on one of the white ceramic resistors--that one may be cracked.

Sounds like you have damage on both the AC input side and the DC output section, that's somewhat of a puzzle as it's usually one side or the other, not so much both.

12V Battery voltage with ignition key at: Off: 12.1 volts Acc: 11.8 volts Ready: 14.5 volts I have yet to confirm if the car starts with a charger connected to the J1772 connector. So the DC/DC converter is working as seen by the 14.5V in READY. The OFF and ACC voltages are much too low and indicat...